Scotland (2009)

Report of a cycling trip from Glasgow to Inverness in May 2009. The road passes by a number of highlights, such as panoramic Glen Coe, Mull's dramatic coastline, Skye's steep cliffs, idyllic Applecross and extremely hilly Assynth. Rudi and I cycle some 1.100 kilometers in two weeks.

Day 1: Glasgow > Ardbeg (47 km)

Marieke and the kids bring us to Schiphol Airport very early. At 8 am we arrive in the departure hall, half an hour later our bicycles are prepared for the flight. This leaves us 90 minutes for the check-in. But KLM decided to put together all check-in counters, as a result of which we find ourselves stuck in a queue of 300 m across the whole building. 'New policy', says an assistant. It takes us a long while before we eventually check-in at 10 am exactly the departure time of our flight. This leaves us no choice but to take the next flight to Glasgow, five hours later. We are very disappointed in this silly KLM move, but feel "relieved" by the thought that lots of people, some of whom took a hotel at Schiphol in order to be on time, miss their (intercontinental) flights as well.

During our approach to Glasgow (our captain: 'Rain and 6 °C') we notice below the swamped golf courts. Damned, what a wet start! The airport looks abandoned. We drop our bicycle transport protection stuff at the Premier Inn and book a room for the return flight. It is 5 pm, and Rudi has lost appetite in cycling. I manage to persuade Rudi to try cycling to the west and get past Dunoon. The first dozens of kilometers are not quite beautiful. Lots of small houses, garbage by the side of the road, bored youth hanging around, all boys with shaved heads. One and a while there is a bit rain, but the sun is breaking through the clouds as well.

In Greenoch we get our groceries at the mega-large Tesco. They sell jeans for only £ 7. Fortunately we can withdraw money and buy bread rolls and Camping Gaz fule tanks. Then off to Dunoon. By now it is 8.15 pm. In the distance we see a harbour with a large boat, is that our ferry? We cycle even faster now, and are just in time for the last depart of the day. Luckily after all!

Crossing the loch is fun. Rudi makes a lots of pictures. From Dunoon (road sign: 'Drinking in public prohibited') only 8 km separate us from Ardbeg. There is the camp site. The friendly camping owner shows us the (only?) spot on the grass on which our tent won't float away. It has been raining for weeks, he complains. In the dusk we eat goulash with mashed potatoes

Day 2: Ardbeg > Glen Orchy (93 km)

We leave at 9.45 am. In the first few hours on the road rain – out of every single cloud rain is falling – and sun alternate. There is hardly any wind. We cycle alongside Loch Eck. The landscape is friendly, almost like southern Norway north of Kristiansand. Loch Fyne takes us more than 30 km to round. A bit boring: fairly wide, moderately climbing. At this moment we find out that on our map are miles instead of kilometers. This makes our planned day distances somewhat challenging. Adjustment is needed.

Inveraray is located at the opposite of the Loch. We arrive in this little town by crossing a small, steep bridge. We buy ourselves a hamburger and groceries at the petrol pump. The A819 leading to the north is a boring moderate climb eventually reaching 210 m. The view from the "summit" is excellent: we can see the mountains of Ben Cruachan that are covered in snow above 900 m.

Near the beautifully located Kilchurn Castle we have a small conversation with two fishermen with six rods. It appears they have not caught any fish today. With the winter and spring being very cold the fish come late this year.

At Dalmally the lady in the bar of the hotel fills our Ortlieb water bag. After another 5 km on the wide A85 we turn left and continue on the very small road through Glen Orchy. The river meanders calmly in this quiet valley. Traffic is scarce here. We decide to pitch our tent at the picnic place next to the wire bridge over Orchy river. We cook and have nasi goreng on one of the tables. Rudi complains that it is cold here. Time to let the frisbee fly in the evening sky. Lovely place!

Day 3: Glen Orchy > Strontian (89 km)

On our beautiful camping spot next to the Orchy and have breakfast in the sun. The trip through the glen is relaxed. First we cycle in the forest, with climbs now and then. About half way we can see a series of rapids, after which the valley opens up. In the distance we can see high hills. We arrive at the junction with the main road A82 and turn left to the north. At the Bridge of Orchy, at which a railway station and a hotel are located, we drink a hot chocolate. Thanks to the sun it is bloody hot here. We put off the long trousers and sweater. Sun glasses and sun cream are a must.

Back on the bicycle again the landscape opens up even more. In the far distance we can see snow on the mountains. The wide road is not very busy, but many drivers exceed the maximum speed wherever they can. Here most British drive carefully, although some drivers overtake us with 100 km an hour, exactly at the moment a car from the opposite passes, that has no choice but to steer to the shoulder. Apparently British find it hard to estimate the (low) speed of a cyclist.

After a simple ascent we arrive at the first summit. We find ourselves on a plateau offering nice views and lakes. The impressive Meal à Bhuiridh dominates the western part of this area. From here an easy climb brings us at 350 m altitude after which we can descent at great speed. We cycle pass the Three Sisters located at the south side of Glen Coe. The colossal north faces remind me of the Eiger although here the size is more modest.

We descent a little more and cycle over the bridge to Inchree ferry. Loch Linnhe is at its narrowest here. From now on we leave the busy roads for several days. The route from Corran to Inversanda is gorgeous Looking left we can see the Ben Nevis still heavily covered in snow. Going west through the Glen Talbert we have to stand on our pedals. In the final 10 km of the day Rudi's knee hurts and lactic acid builds up in my legs.

We camp in a village called Strontian. The nice location next to the loch is in contrast to the shabby camping. I admit: there is a cork shower mat in the "bathroom". And it is very quiet here, except for the guy in the tent next to ours who is sawing trees all night. We go to the simple village hotel and order the most expensive course, a £ 12.50 pound steak. knowing the favorable 1:1 exchange rate this is a good deal. We drink beer for desert in the hotel pub. Time stands still here. The barmaid complains about her work all the time. However, in order to get her dream job, she figured out she needs to study for three years. Way too long as far as she is concerned. Hence she keeps complaining about her miserable situation. Yeah, sure.

Day 4: Strontian > Killiechronan (104 km)

From Strontian we take the A884 to the south. A fairly steep climb lies in front of us: 9% on average for several miles. Then go down and up again. When reading the map we imagined the road to Lochaline to be easy, but the track is very hilly instead. We have to keep up the speed to get the ferry in time.

The ferry brings us Fishnish Bay in just 15 minutes. The A849 to the south-east is boring and flat. Suddenly we see Graignure, the location of the ferry arriving from Oban. The village seems ready for the tourist season, but now it is quiet here. On a sunny (26 °C) terrace we order Giant McGregor, the most expensive hamburger of the menu The exchange rate makes us hungry! We talk to a lady from Newcastle who took off to the Hebrids directly after retirement. At at distance of 50 km Ben Nevis is clearly visible. According to a local such a view is rare in this area.

From the road to the south we have a magnificent view of the sea and the mountains on the mainland. When we turn westwards we notice that lots of trees have been cut around here. The Scots are into forest management anyway. First we get the impression that the Scots cut the softwood to have it replaced by hardwood. But later we are told that it is just direct timber production, just like in Scandinavia.

Up in Glen More the landscape becomes rough. Several valleys are linked here. Deep down we can see lakes. A little bit further away there is this high hill (Corra Bheinn) with a funny pyramid-shaped summit. Rudi was here 7 years ago, but at that time he could see nothing but clouds. Now the air is so crystal clear that we have to protect our skins with sun cream. One disadvantage of the intense sun is the absence of shading, leading to "flat" photographs.

While we rest at Loch Scridain we eat bread rolls with jam and "la vache qui rit". From here we cycle to the west on a very narrow coast road with lots of curves. We really enjoy this! When we cross yet another hill and are amazed by what is in front of us. It is a spectacular view of the many islands in Loch na Keal, the gradually shaped eroded Ulva and above all the steep cliffs of Balnahard. Meanwhile it is 6.30 pm and I had promised to make a phone call home. Since my cell phone has no connection to the network, I try the red telephone box. British Telecom apparently wants to discourage the use of these boxes, given the fact that I spend a lot of pounds for just a few minutes. What a swindle!

The next part is impressive as well, may be the most beautiful part of the vacation. The narrow road is situated between the coast and the steep cliffs. Also the last 15 km are nice. We look over our shoulders all the time in order to watch the evening sun setting light to the water. We camp right at the coastline, amidst the birds making noise. We cook a gigantic portion of spaghetti with fresh ingredients, and refresh ourselves in the bath room at the car workshop located 350 m away. What could we wish more?

Day 5: Killiechronan > Resipole (88 km)

Waking up on this magnificent camping site is a real pleasure. At 5 am we can hear the geese. At 7.30 am, when we get out of our sleeping bags, three guys with binoculars from Windsor are standing behind our tent to watch birds. One of them says that a sea eagle with a wing span of 2.5 m has a nest close by. He also tells us about the English youth becoming fat: nowadays boys have these bull necks. We could hang around for hours with the guy, but we have other plans for the day.

After breakfast on a rock in the loch (a double portion of noodles) we move on. Considering all the parked cars and people with binoculars next to the road we pass the eagle's nest after just a few minutes. The road is very scenery. We can see steep cliffs at the other side of the bay opposite of the bay. We pass the ferry going to Ulva, a scarcely inhabited island which is very popular with hikers. Near Kilminian the hilly road becomes very hilly (20%). A bench is standing just at the right spot for us to recover. After another climb we descent to Calgary Bay. I expect something grandiose but it is just a nice situated bay with a sand beach. We east a sandwich and take a caffeine shot.

The road leading from Calgary Bay to Tobermory is quite hard. Three times at a row we have to ascent and descent a difference in altitude of a few hundred meters, with in addition some minor climbs. In the descent from Dervain we engage one of the very few cyclists during our stay in Scotland. He wants to say something to us, but we have no time. Our ferry to the mainland departs only once every 90 minutes. Tobermory itself is a town with colorfully painted houses nicely located around the small harbor. In the spare time I do some shopping in the Spar in the former church building.

The ferry brings us to Kilchoan where we have to climb again. From there we can see the silhouettes of the islands of Rhum, Muck and Eigg rising from the sea. What a splendid view. After yet another hill we approach Loch Sunart. The remaining hilly kilometres to the camping are very demanding. Sometimes the narrow road changes to a very wide road. We can read from the signs that we can thank the European Commission for that. A motorway will definitively be useful to brings loads of tourists to this area but for cyclists it is not ideal. I am not against Brussels, but please leave these nice roads alone! Anyway, at the end of the day we have done a total of 1,450 m in height.

Day 6: Resipole > Breacais Losal (98 km)

From Resipole's neat camping, where I almost forget my glasses - I wear contact lenses during cycling holidays - we set off for the north. Loch Shiel and Loch Moidart are nice. My hamstrings hurt a lot - probably due to yesterday's climbing efforts. From Glenuig Bay we have an excellent view of the islands Eigg and Rùm, and at more distance Skye. We leave the boring A861 and follow the wide A830 on which cars develop high speeds. Certainly not a bicyclist-friendly road. There are a few miles of paved cycling lanes, but these are too bumpy to descent. The only variation here is the railway we cross several times. We feel relieved when we can leave this road in Arisaig. The nice old coastal to Morar goes up-and-down. We pass small bays with rocks covered with algae, beaches and have splendid views of the island mentioned before.

The remaining miles to Mallaig we ride (illegally?) on the main road. Unfortunately we miss the ferry by just a few minutes. This leave us no choice but to have fish and chips. At 6 pm we take the boat. It has been fairly warm the whole day, and also on the boat it is comfortable.  Having arrived on Skye we jump on our bicycles and head north. It is getting late now. On our detailed and recently acquired Ordnance map two camp sites in Brecais are mentioned. One appears to be a (gipsy?) trailer park and the other does not exist at all. At the very moment our mood gets real bad, we ask a driver if he knows where the nearest camp site is. He confirms that indeed there are none in the area, and invites us to stay in his garden.

We gladly accept the invitation. His white house at the sea is just a few miles away. While we are pitching the tent in the long grass he brings us beer. Just when I try to tell him that we cannot expect him to take such care of us, he says we can take a shower inside and starts cooking. He - his name is Peter Dunlop - lives here alone in this cozy house. His wife past away 18 months ago, and his daughter works at the University of Edinburgh. Every week Peter presents a jazz-programme on Cuillin FM, "the" ultimate Skye radio station. The eyes of jazz-addict Rudi starts to twinkle. After the delicious pasta, beer, wine, and local oatcakes, he lets us taste some of his finest whiskeys. What a great evening! It is 1.30 am when we totter to the tent and fall asleep.

Day 7: Breacais losal > Elgol (30 km)

Today we enjoy a day off on the island of Skye. When we get up at 9 am, Peter has already left for work. He has left the door open for us so we can refresh ourselves. We take it easy, at the end of the morning we return the key at his office, a print shop in Broadford. We also bought him a present: a bottle of Tobermory whisky. Next we head to the south west on the narrow B8083. We have the wind behind us, but the sun does not show up today. It has become cooler than the past few days. We take a short break at a ruin of a church with old family graves. Until some 100 years ago this was mining area, they have even built a rail line. But that has all disappeared now.

From the township of Torrin at Loch Slaping the route gets more scenic. After a long but not very steep climb we cycle along the first houses of Elgol. Like anywhere in this coastal area the houses are white. What follows is a very steep descent to the coast. Use the brakes carefully here. Down there is not, as I had imagined, a nice little fishery village. There is not even a hotel, just a pier and a parking place. From here people come to make boat trips to Rùm, Eigg or Coruisk.

After a short photo shoot we are done here. There is no camping, and we would not know where to pitch the tent. This leaves us no choice but to return. Up the hill we had spotted a Bed & Breakfast. This means we have to cycle 15 to 25% on average during 1 km, pretty tough with all the luggage. After we have dropped all of our stuff at the B&B we go for a walk along the coast line to the north. We try to get a good view of the Cuillins, Skye's highest summits, which rise high from the sea. We make a lot of pictures, although it is too cloudy and dark to get good results.

Later that night we have dinner at the only restaurant in the whole area: the Seafood Restaurant. Fortunately the food is excellent and the service is friendly. For £ 15 Rudi orders giant crab legs, fresh out of the sea. The problem is that these legs, one after another, have to be hit quite hard. Costs a lot of time. The restaurant owner helps him with a giant hammer. After a shower we go to sleep in a real bed. We have a long cycling day to look forward to tomorrow.

Day 8: Elgol > Applecross (103 km)

We say goodbye to the friendly hostess of the B&B. With the sun visible again we ride to the north-east. The first part is familiar to us, yesterday we went in the opposite direction from Broadford. From there we take the A87, a dull, wide road. We are happy to see the peculiar curved bridge to Kyle of Lochalsh. On the mainland we turn left and take the coastal road to Achmore. Coastal means this time that we climb a lot of hills and hardly see the coast at all because of the high hedges.

According to the travel guides Plockton is worth a visit but we do not have time for that. After all, we have to round Loch Carron and climb the pass to Applecross. Durinish is a nice village with a steep slope to the local bridge. From here we cycle for quite some time through the forest until the junction with the wide A890. We notice a traffic sign 'Stromeferry (no ferry)'. Hilarious. This road is famous for its unnecessary steep (18%) climbs. At Stratcarron we are at the most eastern part of the loch. After 75 km headwind we go west at great speed with the wind behind us. The road to Ardarroch is very steep as is its descent.

In Tornapress we are at the start of the climax of the day: the pass road to Applecross. We have heard that this will be a difficult one. The first few miles the oncoming drivers make gestures as if to say 'good luck', 'come on'. Or simply 'idiots!', I don't know. Ominous clouds, out of which more and more raindrops are falling, make it a true challenge. Nevertheless this beautiful narrow road is not as mean as we had expected at forehand. The first few km only 3 to 5%, next a few km 8 to 10%, followed by 1 km of 12 to 18%, to end with several 8 to 10% steep hairpins. Conclusion: a hard but doable route through a barren valley, which is Scotland's highest paved pass road with 626 m.

Having arrived at the summit we enjoy the magical view of Skye. The 600 m descent to the sea level is superb. High speeds are possible here in theory, although the road is narrow and has numerous curves. Almost down we can see the deer amongst the sheep in the meadow. Applecross' camping site is just perfect. Although it is pre-season there are plenty of guests; it must be really crowded in summer. In the local pub we make a toast to this wonderful day with a fresh beer.

Day 9: Applecross > Gairloch (104 km)

The laundry I hung up last night is dry when we come out of the tent. We have no hangover, and after a double portion of noodles, custard and raisins we depart. We cycle pass Applecross' romantic white church. Thanks to the perfect weather we have an excellent view of the mountains of Skye at the other side of the Inner Sound. We make a lot of pictures. Except for a handful of tourists this area is deserted. Alongside the whole west coast of this peninsula we count fifteen houses at most. Getting nearer to the northern edge the road becomes hillier. Every time we go up and down the slopes of 10 to 12%; this is exhausting. But, the road is narrow and varied, and offers sufficient distraction from thinking of the aching legs.

When we see Rona's lighthouse at the opposite of the Inner Sound we round the cape. We head for the mountains on Wester Ross. First we have to climb steeps hills for another 15 km. In Shieldaig the Australian waitresses bring us hamburgers with French fries. After this village the A896 is rather flat, as is the easy road through Glen Torridon, a valley dominated by 1,000 m high summits.

In insignificant Kinlochewe we see a camping of the Caravanning Club ('Sorry – No tents'). Rudi is saddle-sore and his Achilles tendon hurts as well. I am also not so comfortable with my bike any more. Unfortunately the next camp site is another 30 km cycling. By the skin of our teeth we move on to the north west, along Loch Maree. The road is almost flat, normally not our "thing" but very welcome now. We arrive at the camping after having cycled for more than 100 km. We pitch our tent in the middle of Gairloch on a plateau with a lot of caravans. The British really love caravans, especially the 7 m tall ones with double axes. The oldies only get out of their caravans to let out the little caravan dog. We imagine that, if all the caravans were not here, indeed we would have had a magnificent view of the bay. We have pasta Bolognese for dinner.

Day 10: Gairloch > Ullapool (93 km)

In order to leave Gairloch we need to cycle 10% on average for a mile. Not very good for the cold muscles. We are glad the next slopes are less steep. When we arrive at Loch Ewe we notice concrete structures in the water: what are these? The information panel explains: during WWII this bay was an important assembling location for freight transport to Murmansk ("the Arctic route"). The loch must have been black with ships. The concrete structures are the remains of piers and anti-aircraft guns.

At Little Gruinard there is a nice sand beach. Next is a steep climb. At Mungasdale we eat some of our bread. And then it starts to rain. We eat desert in rain wear. And then descent quickly along Little Loch Broom. The road next to the water is easy. According to our map it would be possible near Dundonnel to cut off the main road and take a ferry to Ullapool, but instead the road sign says ‘No ferry’. The A893 leaves the loch and changes into a long and strenuous climb. We are confronted with headwind and it starts raining as well. Several times as we hope we are at the top we see the oncoming water streams. And then, finally, we have arrive at the pass height. Suddenly the rain stops and the sun breaks through. The landscape is panoramic, we see white fences - some fallen down, ominous clouds, a beautifully illuminated landscape: magnificent!

While descending to the A835 we have a good view of the valley towards Loch Broom. It reminds me of the Norwegian fjords. The last part to Ullapool takes longer than expected. In the middle of the town we find the camping and I call home. I watch the dark grey clouds that have accumulated above the loch and head for us. At the moment the tropical shower commences Rudi has finished pitching the tent. The rain keeps us in for 90 minutes. Next we are going to explore Ullapool. We have very poor food and a few beer in the Publican Seafood Pub of the Year 2006.

Day 11: Ullapool > Achmelvich (57 km)

Last night it rained, but today the sky will remain clear. We buy groceries at the local supermarket, because we think in remote Lochinver there will be none. I order tickets in advance for the train from Inverness to Glasgow. This is necessary because Scottish Rail has limited room for bikes at its trains. The lady at the telephone speaks fast with a Scottish tongue. Therefore it is difficult for me to understand all she says, most important the codes we need. In a few days from now it will turn out that we have received a substantial discount on the regular fares.

The road from Ullapool to the north contains some tricky climbs. After 20 km we leave the A835 and turn left in the direction of Loch Lurgainn. This meandering road is splendid. We see beautiful mountains on both sides of the road. Scotch broom grows abundantly here. This road is not indicated green (meaning "panoramic") on the Michelin map. Probably restaurants and hotels have to pay Michelin to get roads colored green on their maps, and here no restaurants or hotels are present. Despite the sun cream on my ears, the sun is burning so intense I get little blisters.

Next we turn right on a narrow, unnumbered road towards Lochinver. This is a beauty. Though being very hilly, every single km something new shows up. At one time we cycle on the top of a hill and have a panoramic view, next we find ourselves in a Cevennes-like valley, after which we arrive at the Côte d’Azur. Very special is the Suilven, a 731 m high hill which stretches for several miles and ends abruptly in the west. On that side the Suilven looks a bit like the Matterhorn, very weird. Fortunately caravans are not allowed here. To our surprise we spot a well-equipped Spar in Lochinver, meaning that we have been carrying our groceries for nothing for the whole day. To celebrate we buy an extra bottle of wine, chocolate and crisps.

From Lochinver only 6 km separate us from the Achmelvich camp site. This turns out to be a very hill road with a steep decent to a bay at the rough coastline. The water at the white sandy beach is colored blue-green. We pitch our tent a few steps from the sea. And it costs only £ 3 per person. Best camping ever. A friendly Scotsman arrives by car and pitches his tent behind ours. He is relieved that his wife went off for a week with her friends. He tells about the long distance tours he used to cycle with his dad. Even when his dad was 75 years old, he still wanted to cycle on his racing bike, although this meant that he needed support to get his stiff body on the saddle. Will this be our future as well?

Day 12: Achmelvich > Invercassley (91 km)

Judgement Day: today's route, along the west and north coast of Assynt, is commonly known as Scotland's most hilly road. And it starts well: within 15 minutes we have conquered 150 m in height. We ascent and descent continuously the whole of the day. In the little village of Stoer the roof of the church is blown off. Near Clashnessie the sea comes in one 400 m wide ripple to the beach. I have never seen anything like this before in the Netherlands.

The road gets narrower and steeper. All climbs are 10 to 15%, but never very long. In the tiny village of Drumbeg we buy a baguette in the well equipped little supermarket. Suddenly a cloudburst. We find shelter next to the store. Back on our cycles the road gets even more steep, sometimes 15 to 25%. We can cope with this, even if it is sweaty wearing rain wear.

When we arrive at the junction with the wide A894 we have cycled some 900 vertical meters. The next part we also have to climb but this time it is more gradually. We pass two cyclists making a day trip and who have been in sight for 20 km. That gives us a kick. We descent to Loch Assynth. As soon as we get near the beautifully located Ardvreck Castle the sun breaks through. At Inchnadamph the evening sun shines on the bank of a mighty hill.

Rudi cycles in front for the next 10 km to Ledmore, after which we take the A837 through Oykel Valley. Behind us the impressive summits that determine the panoramic landscape become smaller and smaller. We drink a cup of coffee at a motel. The gigantic wood burning stove warms us up. We follow the quiet narrow road through the green and less rough valley. The old Oykel Bridge is constructed very high above the Oykel. In Invercassley we get water and beer at the local hotel. Without any camp sites in the whole area we decide to pitch our tent at the picnic site close by. We have dinner in the log cabin which normally serves as a nature education centre.

Day 13: Invercassley > Inverness (102 km)

This morning we get up early and get our stuff in a hurry. Rudi is a bit scared that a forester will catch us. We have a fast breakfast riding on our bikes. The A837 goes down smoothly. We get some food for on the go in Bonar Bridge. At Fearn Lodge we turn right to the B9176, quite a climb towards 240 m. The view is not impressive after what we have experienced in the past couple of weeks. It starts raining. The whole of the road through Easter Ross rain and sun alternate. Every time we put on our rain wear it stops raining.

Down again we are glad that we do not have to take the busy A9. On my Google Maps I see a parallel road going along Evanton. That is exactly where Rudi and I seek shelter in a telephone box when it suddenly starts raining again. This road is hilly and rural, pretty nice actually. From Dingwall the traffic becomes heavy. In Beauly Rudi's knee starts aching. I try to cheer him up: 'Come on, we are almost at the finish!' The closer we get to Inverness the faster people drive their cars. Sometimes they drive in such an irresponsible way: to pass us and go back to the own lane at the very last moment – almost hitting the oncoming car.

At first sight Inverness looks busy and messy. Must be peak time. We go to the railway station first. I want to collect the tickets I had ordered before by telephone In Ullapool. While printing a total of twelve tickets for us the lady at the desk says we are lucky to have a 50% discount on the normal price. The bad news is that there is no room available for our bikes on the direct train to Glasgow, so we have to go via Aberdeen.

The camping is located at 2.5 km to the south next to Inverness' local sports centre. On the camp site Rudi and I confiscate the only table of the whole tent area. We have delicious curry with turkey, vegetables and rice. For the third time this vacation our tent is pitched next to a German couple touring by bus. It is a small world. In the pub we toast on our Scotland trip. Tomorrow we catch the train to Glasgow and return to the Netherlands. We are very satisfied with this cycling holiday.